Why Adult Women Need a Different Approach to Acne – explained by Dr Anjali Mahto, London Dermatologist
Acne is often viewed as a rite of passage during adolescence, but for many women, it does not end there. Adult female acne is a growing concern and a complex condition that deserves more than recycled teenage skincare advice. If you are a woman in your 20s, 30s, 40s or beyond, still struggling with breakouts, congestion, and unpredictable flare-ups, you are not alone—and you are not imagining it.
At Self London, we take adult acne seriously. We believe that intelligent, long-term skin care begins with recognising that adult women require a fundamentally different approach—both medically and aesthetically. In this article, we explore why the conventional acne toolkit is often inadequate, how hormonal and lifestyle factors intersect, and why AviClear—an advanced laser treatment—may offer new hope for women who have tried everything.
Adult Acne Is Not Teenage Acne
Unlike the acne seen in adolescence, which usually affects the T-zone and coincides with puberty, adult female acne frequently appears along the jawline, chin, and lower cheeks—what dermatologists call the “U-zone.” This pattern is often hormonal in nature, worsened by monthly cycles, stress, perimenopause, or conditions such as polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS).
Adult acne tends to be chronic, meaning it can last for years or even decades. It often coexists with sensitive or dry skin, making it harder to treat using harsh or drying products. Many women report trying multiple prescriptions, countless skincare routines, and over-the-counter products without consistent improvement.
In clinical practice, we often see women who have spent years navigating mixed messages from the beauty industry, social media, and even well-meaning professionals. They are frustrated, confused, and ready for something more credible and effective.
Conventional Treatments Often Miss the Mark
Historically, adult acne has been treated with antibiotics, hormonal contraceptives, retinoids, and benzoyl peroxide. While these have a place, they are not always appropriate or sufficient. For instance:
- Long-term antibiotic use raises concerns about antimicrobial resistance
- Hormonal contraceptives may not be suitable for women planning pregnancy or avoiding synthetic hormones.
- Topical treatments may not address the underlying hormonal or sebaceous drivers of acne.
Moreover, being prescribed the same solutions as a teenager can feel dismissive. Adult women are looking for outcomes, not another experimental regimen. The emotional impact of acne—particularly in professional and social settings—can be profound. Women often tell us they feel embarrassed, undermined, or gaslit about their concerns. It is not just about skin; it is about confidence, autonomy, and agency.
The Missing Piece: Sebum and the Role of Oiliness
One of the least discussed yet most influential factors in adult acne is sebum production. Sebum is the natural oil your skin produces. In many adult women, oiliness worsens over time, particularly in response to stress or hormonal shifts. This excess sebum contributes to clogged pores, inflammation, and recurring deep cystic spots.
Sebum-driven acne is harder to treat with topicals alone. Even isotretinoin (Roaccutane), the most potent oral acne treatment available, works by reducing sebaceous gland activity—but with significant systemic implications. Many women prefer not to go down that path or have already done so, only to see acne return later in life.
Until recently, there were no viable options to directly and safely target sebaceous glands without oral medication. That is now changing—with technology like AviClear.
AviClear: The First and Only FDA-Approved Laser for Acne
AviClear is a 1726 nm laser treatment specifically designed to target sebaceous glands. It does not rely on medication, chemical exfoliants, or antibiotics. Instead, it uses a precise wavelength of light that is absorbed by sebum to selectively heat and suppress the activity of sebaceous glands—without damaging the surrounding skin.
Most patients undergo a series of three sessions spaced about four weeks apart. The treatment is comfortable, requires no downtime, and can lead to significant reductions in oiliness, fewer deep breakouts, and overall acne improvement over time.
At Self London, we have used AviClear extensively—more than most clinics in the UK—and we continue to collect and evaluate data from real patients in the real world. Our patients report:
- A visible decrease in oiliness within weeks
- Fewer deep, cystic spots and reduced post-inflammatory pigmentation
- Long-term stability of skin after treatment
- A sense of relief at no longer needing to cycle through medications or skincare routines
This is not a superficial facial or marketing gimmick. It is a medical-grade treatment supported by peer-reviewed evidence, FDA clearance, and clinical experience.
Who Benefits Most from AviClear?
AviClear is not for everyone—but for the right patient, it can be transformative. Based on our experience, the ideal candidates include:
- Women who have tried multiple oral treatments with limited success
- Those planning pregnancy and wanting to avoid medication
- Patients with PCOS or hormonal acne that flares cyclically
- Individuals experiencing recurrence after stopping antibiotics or spironolactone
- Women who want a long-term, maintenance-free approach to acne
Importantly, AviClear is safe across all skin types, including Fitzpatrick types V and VI. Many traditional lasers carry a risk of pigmentation in darker skin, but the 1726 nm wavelength is both effective and well tolerated in diverse skin tones. At Self London, we have had no pigmentary complications in our broad patient base.
Why Self London Is Different
What sets Self London apart is not just the technology we use, but the way we use it. Unlike other clinics led solely by consultants who rely on prescriptions, or aesthetic centres offering devices without medical oversight, we integrate both disciplines.
Our founder is a consultant dermatologist with a personal history of acne and over two decades of experience in laser medicine, nutrition, and women’s health. This allows us to offer a truly multi-layered approach—rooted in evidence but tailored to the lived reality of adult women.
We manage acne at every level:
- From medical diagnosis to hormonal and nutritional assessment
- From active acne management to prevention and acne scar treatment
- From sensitive skin management to pigmentation correction
Our in-house experience with AviClear is among the most extensive in the UK, and we are actively contributing to the evolving understanding of how best to use this technology in real clinical settings.
What to Expect in Consultation
If you are considering AviClear, a consultation at Self London will explore:
- Your acne history, hormonal health, and prior treatments
- Your goals (e.g. medication-free, oil control, skin clarity)
- A realistic, phased plan—whether that includes laser, topicals, or both
- A skin-type specific approach, particularly important for skin of colour
- Consideration of other modalities, such as microneedling or pigmentation support
We do not “sell” laser treatment. We offer it when it is appropriate—backed by judgement, safety, and clinical data.
A Word of Caution
AviClear is gaining attention, but not all providers offer the same level of expertise. At Self London, your treatment is delivered within a specialist setting, with protocols informed by real-world data and close clinical supervision. We avoid overselling and manage expectations carefully.
If you have seen influencers or aesthetic clinics promote AviClear as a magic fix, we encourage you to ask questions. Acne is a complex condition, and its management requires more than a device alone. What matters is patient selection, diagnosis, and follow-up.
The Take-Home Message
If you are an adult woman struggling with acne, the problem is not you—it is the outdated framework you have been offered. You deserve acne care that is intelligent, precise, and respectful of your time and body.
AviClear offers something genuinely new: a non-invasive, drug-free way to manage acne by targeting the sebaceous glands directly. When paired with proper diagnosis and clinical oversight, it represents a powerful shift in how we treat adult female acne.
You are not imagining your skin concerns. And you are not out of options. If you already suspect that AviClear may be the right direction for your skin, you are likely the kind of patient we work best with.
Ready to explore whether AviClear is right for you?
Book a consultation at Self London and discover what intelligent, evidence-led acne care really looks like.
